Friday, 3 May 2019

Mashpi Shungo and Lower Mashpi Road (NW Ecuador) – 3rd May (Day 9)

After a sound night sleep we awoke to dry conditions which was somewhat of a relief after last nights deluge. After a good breakfast we drove the short distance from our lodge at Chontoloma Ranch to Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm. After meeting our guide, we walked through the cocoa plantations while our guide cut ripe cocoa pods from the trees and we snacked on the sweet and succulent flesh of the seeds. After leaving the plantation we entered the forest and climbed a steep trail to a forested plateau above the farm. Here our guide began to call and it was not long before our target bird responded. Within a few minutes we were watching a stunning Rufous-crowned Pittasoma at a range of some 3m, its bright crown gleaming in the murk of the forest understorey. The guide spoke softly to the bird while feeding it chopped earthworms and we had stunning views over 30 minutes or so of those usually very shy and elusive forest bird.

We spent much of the rest of the morning birding the forest here seeing Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, Choco Parakeet, Pacific Antwren, Spot-crowned Antvireo, Black-crowned Antshrike, Bicoloured Antbird, Zeledon's Antbird, Purple-throated Fruitcrow and Choco Warbler amongst others. A Club-winged Manakin showed well and performed its remarkable wing-snapping display above us but despite this being one of my most wanted birds on the trip I was somewhat disappointed by this birds somewhat unkept appearance. We descended from the forest and enjoyed trying and buying chocolate produced at the farm and tasting some of the fruit used to flavour the chocolate.

After lunch back at the Chontoloma Ranch we birded various spots along the Lower Mashpi Road spending most time on the Santa Rosa Road, however, heavy rain showers interrupted the birding and we saw relatively little with the highlights being Barred Puffbird and Streak-headed Woodcreeper. We headed back to Chontoloma Ranch for dinner and crashed at 21:00.

Rufous-crowned Pittasoma - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

Rufous-crowned Pittasoma - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

Rufous-crowned Pittasoma - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

Rufous-crowned Pittasoma - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

Rufous-crowned Pittasoma - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

Rufous-crowned Pittasoma - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

When the Rufous-crowned Pittasoma first appeared it had a mosquito feeding on each eye, here one remains full of blood - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

Spot-crowned Antvireo - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

Purple-throated Fruitcrow - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

Club-winged Manakin - Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador

View from the Mashpi Shungo Chocolate Farm, Ecuador


Bronze-winged Parrot - Santa Rosa Road, Lower Mashpi Road, Ecuador

Bronze-winged Parrot - Santa Rosa Road, Lower Mashpi Road, Ecuador

Streak-headed Woodcreeper - Santa Rosa Road, Lower Mashpi Road, Ecuador

Barred Puffbird - Santa Rosa Road, Lower Mashpi Road, Ecuador

Buff-rumped Warbler - Santa Rosa Road, Lower Mashpi Road, Ecuador

Birding the Santa Rosa Road, Lower Mashpi Road, Ecuador

Links to Other Days of the Trip (Click to View)

Thursday, 2 May 2019

Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary (NW Ecuador) – 2nd May (Day 8)

After a rather sleepless night in the Hotel Apollo in Pendro Bicente Maldonado being constantly awoken by barking dogs we headed the short distance to the Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary Here we spent much of the day birding from the 15m high canopy tower, the trail behind the canopy tower and the car park area with short excursions along the adjacent gravel track to various side trails. Despite a drop in temperature since our last few days at Playa De Oro, we were now at 350m, it was still decidedly steamy. The reserve was birdy, particularly the area around the car park and highlights from the day included Barred Puffbird, Choco Tyrannulet, Stripe-billed Aracari, Scarlet-browed Tanager, White-bearded Manakin, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Rufous-fronted Wood-quail, Lanceolated Monklet, Orange-fronted Barbet, Dusky-winged Woodpecker, Pale-legged Shrike-vireo, and the extremely localised and skulking Berlepsch's Tinamou. One of the trials produced an extremely active Army Ant swarm which was accompanied by Bicoloured Antbird, Buff-rumped Warbler and Plain-brown Woodcreeper.

At mid-afternoon we drove the short distance to Rancho Suamox for the rare and declining Brown Wood-rail which has been coming to discarded fruit to the rear of the ice-cream store the fruit being used in the ice-cream making process. Unfortunately we had no luck with the rail and the only birds of note we recorded here were Ecuadorian Thrush and Pallid Dove but the ice-creams were great! We then set off on the 1.5 hour drive to Chontoloma Lodge near to Mashpi Town and arrived at around 19:00 in pouring rain. After a good, but beer free meal, we crashed at around 21:30 to the sound of heavy rain on the roof of the lodge, tomorrow there was a key bird to see and I hoped that the skies would rain themselves dry before dawn.

Barred Puffbird - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Red-headed Barbet - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Choco Tyrannulet - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Choco Toucan - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Purple-breasted Hummingbird - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Blue-necked Tanager - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Berlepsch's Tinamou - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Wedge-billed Woodcreeper - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

The remarkable prop-like tail of Wedge-billed Woodcreeper - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Stripe-billed Aracari - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Scarlet-browed Tanager - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Scarlet-browed Tanager - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Bat Falcon - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

White-bearded Manakin - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Plain-brown Woodcreeper - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Buff-rumped Warbler - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Bicoloured Antbird - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Bicoloured Antbird - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

White-tailed Trogon (male) - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

White-tailed Trogon (female) - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Lanceolated Monklet - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Purple-chested Hummingbird - Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Ecuador

Rancho Suamox

Pallid Dove - Rancho Suamox, Silanche, Ecuador

Links to Other Days of the Trip (Click to View)

Wednesday, 1 May 2019

Playa de Oro then drive to Silanche (NW Ecuador) – 1st May (Day 7)

This morning was to be our last at Playa de Oro and we still had a fair bit to see. First, we were up pre-dawn and birded the forest in the dark trying for Choco Poorwill. We came to a small clearing where Gabo had previously seen the bird and played a recording- we listened but there was silence, just like our previous attempts at this bird. We played again and then a response but not in the clearing but by the lodge and so we retraced our steps and the bird was calling loudly from the clearing behind the lodge. A quick scan with the torches and some gleaming eyes, and there at last was a Choco Poorwill, rather a featureless dark Poorwill but a highly localised one.

After a quick breakfast we headed out onto the trail behind the lodge, at last it was dry and we were hopeful of seeing our last few target species for Playa de Oro. Walking the trail behind the lodge we very quickly came across one of our targets, a pair of Short-tailed Antbird which gave us prolonged views as they skulked in the undergrowth. Further along the trail we encountered Blue-tailed (Choco) Trogon and White-tailed Trogon, Spotted Antbird, Ocellated Antbird, a very confiding juvenile White-whiskered Puffbird and two Lemon-spectacled Tanager. A calling raptor was quickly identified by Gabo as a Plumbeous Hawk and after a quick blast of playback the bird appeared in the sub-canopy and showed well. This left just one bird, a bird that is perhaps easiest to see at Playa de Oro than anywhere else and one which we had trawled for almost from our first day at the reserve. Time was running short and Gabo suggested we walk another 10 minutes before we needed to turn back. A final blast on the tape and at last a response and before long we were watching our target, the rather drab Sapayoa. Dull in plumage, the Sapayoa is a taxonomic anomaly having been classified variously with Manakins and Tyrant Flycatchers of the New World, the Asity's of Madagascar and more recently Broadbills of Asia and Africa. The species is now considered to be in a monotypic family placed between the African and Asian Broadbills - a rather remarkable species. After watching this bird for ten minutes or so it was time to turn back, on the way back to the lodge we had good views of another Sapayoa, quite remarkable given that we had spent three days here without seeing one.

Blue-tailed Trogon - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Blue-tailed Trogon - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Red-capped Manakin - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Red-capped Manakin - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

White-whiskered Puffbird - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Spotted Antbird - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Plumbeous Hawk - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Plumbeous Hawk - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Sapayoa - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Sapayoa - Playa de Oro, Ecuador

The village of Playa de Oro, Ecuador

Back at the lodge we packed and loaded the boats before heading off at just gone 11:00 and were back to Selva Alegre at just gone 12:00. We headed to a nearby forest patch where we birded the busy road where the key bird was Slaty-tailed Trogon and after getting good views we commenced our four hour drive to Silanche - it was good to leave this rather noisy stop after the tranquility of Playa de Oro.

Capuchin Monkey - Near to Selva Alegre, Ecuador

Darter species - Near to Selva Alegre, Ecuador

Palm Oil being transported to factory, one of the biggest threats to the existence of rainforests in Ecuador - Near to Selva Alegre, Ecuador

Choco Trogon  - Near to Selva Alegre, Ecuador

En-route to Silanche we stopped for a massive fish lunch on the beach at Playa las Penas  and watched Magnificent Frigatebird and Royal Tern cruise by. After lunch we birded the marshes behind the town seeing a range of new trip birds including Yellow-crowned Night-heron, Ringed Kingfisher, Black-bellied Whistling-duck, Fulvous Whistling-duck, Striped Cuckoo, Purple Gallinule, Cocoi Heron, Hook-billed Kite, Pacific Parrotlet, Peruvian Meadowlark and the highlight, a stunning Pinnated Bittern. However, there was no sign of our main target, Masked Duck.

We then headed west following the Pacific coastline before heading inland on the E20 at Esmeraldas. We arrived at the Hotel Apollo in Pendro Bicente Maldonado at 19:00 and after dinner in a neighbouring restaurant we crashed at around 22:00 to a rather sleepless night awoken constantly by barking dogs - one of the blights of the modern world.

The town of Playa las Penas, Ecuador

Magnificent Frigatebird - Playa las Penas, Ecuador

Yellow-crowned Night-heron - Playa las Penas, Ecuador

Ringed Kingfisher - Playa las Penas, Ecuador

Chestnut-throated Seedeater - Playa las Penas, Ecuador

Striped Cuckoo - Playa las Penas, Ecuador

Peruvian Meadowlark - Playa las Penas, Ecuador

Pacific Hornero - Playa las Penas, Ecuador

Links to Other Days of the Trip (Click to View)