Thursday, 6 August 2015

India (Rajasthan and Kashmir) Trip - 27th July - Day 3

We awoke at 03:45, I had a quick shower then Ian and I were out for the cars for the agreed 04:00,  we stood in the dark all alone, we waited until 04:10 and realised that the rest of the team had overslept so knocked up Martin and Andy and knocked on the wrong room door for the guide - luckily there was no one occupying it. Ian and I stood in the dark and rain waiting for the others to arrive.  By 04:30 we were on our way and after a 1.5 hour drive which involved some random detours we arrived at Sonkhaliya, an extensive, flat expanse of bean, maize and cereal crop with thorn scrub, semi-desert and muddy stuff. 

The morning started rather wet which did not bode well but by the time we arrived on site the rain had eased and almost immediately we heard a Rain Quail calling fairly close by. So we scrambled through an acacia hedge and located the bird calling from a bean field and after a bit of taping we had good views of the bird as it fed and sang along the rows between the bean drills. A cracking little bird, like our quail but with an extensive dark marked breast. It called with a quail like tone a loud, rapidly repeated whit-whit. Back at the car we added Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Ashy-crowned Sparrow LarkCrested Lark, Rock Bush Quail, Southern Grey Shrike and a pair of Red-necked Falcon to the list. We then slowly drove and birded towards our key target of the day through more thorn scrub and crop land. We arrived at our key target at around 08:00 and within a short space of time the guide picked up our first Lesser Florican displaying from a bean field – absolutely fantastic, a bird on a rubber band. It would crouch momentarily before bouncing skyward, gaining height, vertically, by rhythmic yet frantic wing-beats audible as a dull clapping sound at some distance, at the peak of the climb the wings were closed and the head thrown back and the bird would drop to the ground all the while frantically kicking its legs as if to save itself from the impact of the approaching ground while its nape plumes were spread and flapped in the updraft. As was deserving we spent 2.5 hours with the Floricans eventually seeing two displaying males and a single female. After a quick elevenses at Sanaipar we birded an area of wetland and scrub at the rear of the town where highlights were Knob-billed Duck, Greater Painted-snipe, more Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark, Baya Weaver, Common BabblerIndian Silverbill and a Crimson Speckled moth.

After a rather bland curry at a roadside stop we spent the rest of the day birding the habitat at Sonkhaliya to the west of the highway seeing a good range of birds with highlights being Rufous-tailed Lark, better views of a ‘covey’ of eight Rock Bush Quail, Grey FrancolinYellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Bush Lark, Long-tailed Shrike and Bay-backed Shrike and a cracking Rock Eagle Owl which Andy picked up initially as it flew to an acacia tree and the drivers picked up a little later perched in an acacia near the car. But we failed to find any Indian Courser which was a big disappointment for me.

We headed back to the hotel at around 17:30 stopping at a roadside off licence on the way to gather some beers – we couldn’t go another night without. As beers were not permitted in the hotel outside of guest rooms we ordered a superb curry to the room and enjoyed cold Kingfishers before bed at 23:00.

Weather today: Early morning drizzle then overcast and warm with brighter spells and a heavy shower 


Large Grey Babbler - Common and social birds seen at many sites today

Rain Quail - A male singing from the bean crop

Southern Grey Shrike - Here of the race lahtora

Lesser Florican - This is the initial jump from the ground

Lesser Florican - This is the peak of the jump where some frantic flapping occurs

Lesser Florican - This is the fall to ground while treading 'water'

Lesser Florican - This is the moment just before hitting the ground

Lesser Florican - Male in flight

Lesser Florican twitch

Indian Bush Lark - This bird looks dramatically different from the bird we saw yesterday (shown here), I guess this may be due to feather wear

Rufous-fronted Prinia - Yawn

Red-necked Falcon

Cattle Egret - A small breeding colony is present in the middle of Sanaipar. This is the race coromandus which is sometimes split as Eastern Cattle Egret - clearly it is far more orange than the race us British birders are more familiar with

Knob-billed Duck

Red-wattled Lapwing

Black-winged Stilt

Indian Bush Lark

Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark

Compo meets the locals

Indian Silverbill - Although subdued in colour, these are cracking little birds

Crimson Speckled

Baya Weaver

Common Babbler of nominate race

Indian Peafowl - Although common they are stunning birds as they wander the gardens and fields

Greater Painted-snipe - This bird, a male, ran out of the water and hid under a short Acacia as we watched

Bank Myna

Long-tailed Shrike of race caniceps

Yellow-wattled Lapwing

Rufous-tailed Lark

Rock Eagle-owl

Grey Francolin

Southern Grey Shrike

Indian Robin of race camaiensis, sometimes known as Brown-backed Indian Robin

Rock Bush Quail - Male

Rock Bush Quail - Female

Links to the other Days of the Trip:
Day 1 - Background and Travel day
Day 2 - Surajpur Wetland and Nahargah Biological Park
Day 4 - Ajmer Thorn Forest and drive back to Delhi
Day 5 - Fly Delhi to Shrinigar (Kashmir) then Yousmarg
Day 6 - Yousmarg
Day 7 - Dachigam National Park, Shankarachariya Temple and Dal Lake
Day 8 - Yousmarg then return to Delhi and flights home

If you have any comments or queries on this post then please do not hesitate to contact me at simon@ecosa.co.uk

Wednesday, 5 August 2015

India (Rajasthan and Kashmir) Trip - 26th July - Day 2

Martin and I were up at 03:30 and down to the hotel foyer for 04:00 to meet Andy and Ian after their long flight from Midlands Airport - they looked shattered when they eventually arrived at 04:15 but they were keen to get going. After a bit of faffing we were ready and on our way to Surajpur Wetland through the still dark streets of Delhi but slowly the sun rose and the first birds became visible, House Crow, Black Kites, Night Heron, Cattle Egret and Indian Peafowl still roosting on the billboards and pylons. The Surajpur Wetland was approximately one hour from our hotel and it was light when we arrived and we birded the wet fields just outside the entrance seeing Red-wattled Lapwing, Pied Bushchat, a fine male Red Avadavat, Ashy Prinia, Indian Bushlark, Indian Thick-kneeGreen Bee-eater, Wood Sandpiper and Green Sandpiper. After sometime familiarising ourselves with these birds and once that initial headless chicken phase of the first day of a foreign trip had passed we wandered into the reserve. We birded the first 300-400m of the track which led through thorn scrub, wet grassland and a Water Hyacinth choked lagoon. Birds here included Greater Coucal, Indian Spot-billed Duck, Asian Openbill Stork, Red-naped Ibis, smart Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Purple Gallinule and Grey Francolin. We also came across Leopard pug marks along the main track, a little surprising given the built up nature of the site. We eventually arrived at an area of open flooded grassland with scattered thorn scrub where we quickly heard and obtained fair views of our main target, the Bristled Grassbird classified by Birdlife as Vulnerable, a surprisingly large grassbird with a distinct jet black mouth visible when singing and bristles around the base of the bill. These were particularly evident when one bird performed a song flight above our heads. After some final birding just outside the park entrance where we added Indian Spotted Eagle to the list we headed back to the hotel at around 08:30 to gather our bags before setting off on the long drive southwards to Ajmer.

To break up the journey we stopped at the Nahargah Biological Park (15:00-17:30) just to the north-east of Jaipur. The thick overcast had turned to a heavy drizzle and so we birded the thorn forest here without cameras. The birding was good and pretty lively and we saw Brahminy MynahBlack-headed Cuckooshrike, Western Crowned Warbler, Rufous Treepie, White-browed Fantail, Bay-backed Shrike, Cinereous Tit, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia and White-bellied Drongo. Mammals included Nilgai and Langur Monkey. However, the undoubted highlight were a pair of Indian Pitta which showed very well alongside the main track as they perched in the thorn scrub in response to playback – absolutely cracking birds and great to see them so well – but no camera!!

Back on the road to complete the final three of the eight hour drive to Puskar near to Ajmer. We arrived at the Hotel Paradise at 21:30 had superb curry but no beers as this is a strictly religious state and alcohol is prohibited, completed the log and crashed.

Hoopoe of race ceylonensis - Surajpur Wetland

Bristled Grassbird showing the remarkable black mouth - Surajpur Wetland

Bristled Grassbird in song flight showing the bristles at the base of the bill - Surajpur Wetland

Black-crowned Night Heron - Surajpur Wetland

Indian Pond Heron - Surajpur Wetland

Greater Coucal (nominate) - Surajpur Wetland

Green Bee-eater (adults) of race beludschicus - Surajpur Wetland

Green Bee-eater (juvenile) of race beludschicus- Surajpur Wetland

Green Bee-eater (juvenile) of race beludschicus - Surajpur Wetland

Indian Bushlark (lumped by some including HBW as race of Bengal Bushlark but differs in vocalisation, song flight and habitat choice) - Surajpur Wetland

Indian Spotted Eagle (adult) - Surajpur Wetland

Cows on the highway

The first lunch in India

Langur Monkeys - Nahargah Biological Park

Langur Monkeys - Nahargah Biological Park

Weather Today: Mostly overcast with some sun in the AM but rain for much of the afternoon.

Links to the other Days of the Trip:
Day 1 - Background and Travel day
Day 3 - Sonkhaliya
Day 4 - Ajmer Thorn Forest and drive back to Delhi
Day 5 - Fly Delhi to Shrinigar (Kashmir) then Yousmarg
Day 6 - Yousmarg
Day 7 - Dachigam National Park, Shankarachariya Temple and Dal Lake
Day 8 - Yousmarg then return to Delhi and flights home

If you have any comments or queries on this post then please do not hesitate to contact me at simon@ecosa.co.uk

Tuesday, 4 August 2015

India (Rajasthan and Kashmir) Trip - 25th July to 1st August - Background and Day 1

Background
It had been sometime since my last proper foreign birding trip which was to Colombia in May 2012, before the birth of Tobias, and I was eager for some ticks and some of the thrill that comes with stepping into an unfamiliar avifauna where each call is unrecognised and birds appear that do not immediately click into a familiar search image. So when Ian Merrill invited me on a trip with Andy Bunting and Martin Kennewell, three long term travelling mates, I jumped at the chance (after gaining permission from Sarah of course). This trip to India had been planned by Ian Merrill to mainly target such rare species as Lesser Florican (Endangered) and Striated Grassbird (Vulnerable) in the grasslands of Rajastan at Surajpur and Sonkhaliya, respectively, as well as the recently ‘discovered’ birding area around Srinagar in Kashmir for species such as Kashmir Nuthatch, Spectacled Finch and Kashmir Flycatcher plus the slim chance of Western Tragopan, a dream bird. Kashmir was somewhat of an afterthought since Lesser Florican had to be seen at this time of year when it performs its whacky vertical jumping display but it would be a long trip just to see this species so Kashmir seemed a good choice to see a couple of localised species - the others had travelled widely in India previously. However, we realised that Kashmir would be past its peak in terms of the birding season since most species would have finished singing and thus be more difficult to locate.

Logistics
Ian, Andy and Martin had previously used Asian Adventures and due to their previous excellent service the Rajastan element of the current trip was booked via them. Asian Adventures booked all hotels, provided bird guides and drivers, provided vehicles and provided all the ground ‘support’ that we needed. Asian Adventures were excellent and I would highly recommend them. The Kashmir element of the trip was arranged by Dr. Reyaz Qureshi (email: dr.rqureshi@gmail.com) who is Assistant Professor and Coordinator of Tourism & Hospitality Management at the University of Kashmir. Dr. Qureshi arranged a driver and guide, our guide was good but not a bird guide and in hindsight it would have been advantageous to have booked the Kashmir element through Asian Adventures. We needed to use Dr. Qureshi since we had obtained GPS references for some of the key species from Birdtour Asia and, naturally, they were keen to ‘protect’ their sites from other tour operators. Asian Adventures do have experience of birding in Kashmir and a knowledge of calls and habitat requirements would have been helpful in locating our quarry species.

Itinerary
25th July – 10:15 flight from London Heathrow Terminal 5 at 10:15, arrive Delhi in the evening. Met by Asian Adventures at airport and transferred to Hotel Vikram for overnight stay.

26th July - Early Morning drive to Surajpur Wetland for couple of hours birding before 8 hour drive to Ajmer stopping at Nahargah Biological Park en-route. Overnight stay at Hotel Master Paradise in Ajmer.

27th July - Full day birding in Sonkhaliya approximately 1.5 to 2 hours from Ajmer. Overnight stay at Hotel Master Paradise.

28th July - Half day birding in Ajmer thorn forest just outside of town. Drive back to Delhi stopping in Nahargah Biological Park to break the journey. Arrive Delhi in the early evening. Overnight stay at Hotel Shanti Palace .

29th July - Early morning transfer to Delhi airport to connect to 05:45 flight to Srinagar, Kashmir. Drive from Srinigar to Yousmarg (two hours) and birded Yousmarg for remainder of stay. Overnight stay in Marco Polo Houseboat, this was booked through Asian Adventures.

30th July – Drive from Srinagar to Yousmarg and spent the entire day birding the area. Overnight stay in Marco Polo Houseboat.

31st July – Morning at Dachigam National Park, 30 minutes from Srinigar then afternoon at Shankarachariya Temple and Dal Lake. Overnight stay in Marco polo Houseboat.

1st August - Drive from Srinagar to Yousmarg and spent the morning birding. Transfer to Srinigar Airport at 11:30 for 16:15 flight to Delhi. Transfer from Delhi Airport to Hotel Shanti Palace for dinner and freshen up. Transfer to Delhi Airport for 01:50 flight on 2nd August, landed in Heathrow at 06:15.

 Google Earth screen grab showing main sites (marked by yellow push-pin) visited in Rajasthan with Sonkhaliya and Ajmer in the south-west, Nahargah Biological Park to the south-west of centre and the Surajour Wetland in the north-east - Click on image for larger version

Google Earth screen grab showing main sites (marked by yellow push-pin) visited in Kashmir with Yusmarg in the south-west and the remaining sites in the north - Click on image for larger version

Day 1 - Diary
I was up at 05:00 and after a bit of final packing and faffing I was on my way to Heathrow Airport Terminal 5.  So, I arrived at Heathrow airport in good time but to massive queues at the bag drops, I am not really sure of the benefit of an online check-in when one still has to queue as if to check-in, still with some discrete queue jumping I left a line of several 100 people to join the ‘assistance’ desk where there were four people and after a bit of blagging I checked in my bags and was at security. Security was a breeze (other than a virtual full strip these days) and by 08:30 I found myself in Gordon Ramsey’s “Plane Food’ enjoying smoked salmon and scrambled egg and coffee. I boarded the flight at 09:30 for a 10:15 departure but for some unexplained reason the plane did not depart until 10:50. Still, I had plenty of space, enjoyed a pre-flight sparkling wine and was off. The flight was, thankfully I guess, uneventful, a few bottles of wine and a bit of genning-up as the flight took me out of the UK over the Thames Estuary, then over Brussels, the Czech Republic, the Black Sea, the famous migration spot of Batumi, across Georgia via T’bilisi, over Turkmenistan, the Caspian Sea, Afghanistan to the south of Kabul and over Pakistan to the south of Lahore and over many other areas between now plagued by religious in-fitting. The flight landed in Delhi at 23:15 and I was met at the airport by Asian Adventures and transported through the dark and bustling streets of Delhi to the Hotel Vikram where Martin was tucked up in bed. Ian and Andy’s flight was delayed by two hours due to a storm in Amsterdam which grounded flights and so they didn’t arrive until around 04:00.

Links to the other Days of the Trip:
Day 2 - Surajpur Wetland and Nahargah Biological Park
Day 3 - Sonkhaliya
Day 4 - Ajmer Thorn Forest and drive back to Delhi
Day 5 - Fly Delhi to Shrinigar (Kashmir) then Yousmarg
Day 6 - Yousmarg
Day 7 - Dachigam National Park, Shankarachariya Temple and Dal Lake
Day 8 - Yousmarg then return to Delhi and flights home

If you have any comments or queries on this post then please do not hesitate to contact me at simon@ecosa.co.uk