Showing posts with label Bulgaria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bulgaria. Show all posts

Saturday, 30 April 2016

Bulgaria Trip - 25th and 26th April (Day 4-5)

We were up at the usual 05:30 and back to the same track as yesterday evening with high hopes but fairly low morale. There was but one target, see Hazel Grouse. We walked slowly, played tapes, scanned the forest floor, scanned the trees but nothing. Then at around 08:45 Minko suddenly beckoned me, he had a Hazel Grouse perched in the trees only around 20m away but as I joined him the grouse flew and all I saw was an arse-end as it disappeared downslope - do I tick it on this view was the question in my mind, far from satisfactory. I moved to a position where the bird had flown to but no sign, then out of the corner of my eye a movement as another bird flew across the track but I could not be sure it was a Hazel Grouse. The Hazel Grouse started calling and there were at least three birds present, we stalked around the area scanning but to no avail and just as we were about to give up I saw a bird fly from the ground into the trees around 75m down the slope, I frantically scanned and then there it was partly obscured and a little distant but unmistakably a male Hazel Grouse. We enjoyed the grouse for at least 5 minutes before it flew further down slope. Fantastic! And so rewarding to have spent around 12 hours looking for this species to have finally found it. I was chuffed and we headed back down the slope to the car.

Our drive to Sofia was punctuated by breakfast watching Red-rumped Swallow and Pallid Swift and a look for Three-toed Woodpecker but although we saw feeding evidence we had no luck with seeing the birds but our time was very limited here. We arrived in Sofia at 16:00 and said our goodbyes to Minko. Before checking into the Hotel Sofia Balkan for one night and a chance to explore the city. We concluded that Sofia was rather uninspiring and headed for the airport at 11:00 for our 14:20 flight back to the UK on 26th April.

Hazel Grouse - near to Yagodinska Cave

Haberlea rhodopensis - Endemic to the Rhodophe Mountains

Three-toed Woodpecker habitat

Wild Crocus 

Trip List
Total of 76 species with 3 ticks (shown in bold).

Grey Partridge
Hazel Grouse
Mallard
Rock Dove
Common Woodpigeon
Eurasian Collared-dove
Alpine Swift
Pallid Swift
Common Cuckoo
White Stork
Little Ringed Plover
Yellow-legged Gull
Eurasian Buzzard
Grey-faced Woodpecker
Eurasian Green Woodpecker
Black Woodpecker
Great Spotted Woodpecker
Common Kestrel
Peregrine Falcon
Crested Lark
Eurasian Skylark
Woodlark
Barn Swallow
Eurasian Crag Martin
Northern House Martin
Red-rumped Swallow
White Wagtail
Yellow Wagtail
Grey Wagtail
White-throated Dipper
Northern Wren
Dunnock
Mistle Thrush
Song Thrush
Common Blackbird
Ring Ouzel
Common Nightingale
European Robin
Black Redstart
Whinchat
Common Stonechat
Common Firecrest
Goldcrest
Common Chiffchaff
Blackcap
Lesser Whitethroat
Sombre Tit
Willow Tit
Coal Tit
European Crested Tit
Great Tit
Long-tailed Tit
Eurasian Nuthatch
Wallcreeper
Eurasian Treecreeper
Eurasian Jay
Common Magpie
Spotted Nutcracker
Eurasian Jackdaw
Rook
Hooded Crow
Common Raven
Common Starling
House Sparrow
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Common Chaffinch
European Serin
European Greenfinch
Eurasian Siskin
European Goldfinch
Common Linnet
Red Crossbill
Eurasian Bullfinch
Corn Bunting
Rock Bunting
Cirl Bunting

Links to the Other Days of the Trip

Friday, 29 April 2016

Bulgaria Trip - 23rd April (Day 2)

We awoke to the sound of a Black Redstart singing from the tiled roofs outside our room, we quickly freshened up and were drinking shots of expresso by 06:15. Minko arrived at 06:30 and we were off. Driving along the wooded gorge we passed through the still sleeping town of Devonish and climbed the slopes above the town. Our first quick stop was for 2 Chamois that Minko spotted high on a rock outcrop. The stop also produced singing Lesser Whitethroat and Cirl Bunting. We continued our climb before stopping in a pine and spruce dominated woodland near to Lesichevo. A flock of 6 Crossbill called and sang overhead and a Firecrest showed briefly nearby, singing birds included Cuckoo, Song Thrush, Blackbird, Robin and Dunnock, familiar birds from home but then a distant calling Black Woodpecker showed we were birding in more distant lands. We took a short walk through the forest looking for our target Hazel Grouse seeing Firecrest, Common Treecreeper, Willow Tit and a flyover Black Woodpecker but no sign of the grouse. Bear poo complete with crushed bone seen along with evidence of foraging Wild Boar. We returned to the car and took a slow drive back towards Devonish adding Jay to the list along the way.

A short stop in Devonish produced a pair of Dipper with two fledged young, this seemed very early for these birds to have fledged chicks and the pair were busy freshening their nest with new material. Overhead were around 40 Pallid Swift, 15 Red-rumped Swallow, 25 Barn Swallow and 30 House Martin while Serin twinkled their song from the treetops.






Dipper action in Devonish. Shots 3 and 4 show the bird capturing and eating a Stone-fly larvae and the prey time can be seen as the bird surfaces. The bottom image is of a juvenile bird already manically dipping at this age. These birds are of the race aquaticus.


We headed back through the gorge towards Trigrad admiring the stunning gorge and the crystal clear waters of the Trigrad River. Minko was very excited to see two Chamois feeding on the gravel beach's lining the river and we stopped and watched as they fed on vegetation before heading up the steep cliffs and back into the forest. We stopped at a viewpoint just before the tunnel located immediately to the south of the ‘Devil’s Throat’ a deep cave said to be the route to the underworld that Orpheus took to rescue Euridice from Hades. The viewpoint was flanked by shear cliff face and just above the road was a small vertical crack where a tuft of moss could be seen, this was a Wallcreeper’s nest. We waitied and after around 10 minutes Minko and I both heard a distant calling bird.  Slowly the bird got closer until the calling was fairly loud, reverberating around the canyon and within a short while Minko spotted the bird on the cliff face above us. And there was my nemesis bird, dipping and flashing its bright crimson wings - a Wallcreeper! The bird dropped and was now within 15m of us, absolutely stunning, even Sarah let out a ‘wow’! The bird entered the nest and we could see it in the crevice freshening the nest and moving material around and then it was out and flying away along the cliff face. I followed the bird in my bins as it flitted butterfly like againist the vastness of the limestone cliffs of the gorge.




Chamois feeding along the edge of the Trigrad River, Minko said it was very unusual to see them beside the river as they are usually very high on sheer cliff faces





What can be said! The Wallcreeper is absolutely unique.


We headed back to the hotel for 11:00 for a much needed breakfast stop of scrambled egg, toast and more shots of expresso. After this we headed to the meadows above Yagodina. It was a little early in the year for the meadow flowers to be blooming but it was clear that there these were flower rich meadows. Fairly quickly we found our main target here, Sombre Tit, which enthusiastically responded to a recording. This was a surprisingly large tit with a hefty bill, large black bib and a very long (for a tit) tail. Also here were Rock BuntingLesser Whitethroat, Stonechat, Green Woodpecker and Serin.

Sombre Tit - Yagodina

Serin - Yagodina

Stonechat of race rubicola - Yagodina

Rock Bunting - Yagodina

Marsh Orchid species - Yagodina

Traditional farming methods still used in Yagodina

The village of Yagodina

Buynovo Gorge below Yagodina

Buynovo Gorge below Yagodina

We then headed back through Devin and back up the road to Lesichevo to try once more for Hazel Grouse. Around the mainly derelict village of there were at least 4 Ring Ouzel of the race alpestris with big white wing panels and scaly flanks. It started to rain and we headed for the woodland but saw little at our first stop. The next stop was a wide ride that lead for around 1km through woodland to a mammal hide we spent around 1.5 hours here as it was fairly birdy. The rain had encouraged the emergence of Fire Salamander and we saw 5 of these amazing animals. Birds included our first Crested Tit, calling Grey-headed Woodpecker and 3 fantastic Black Woodpecker but no Hazel Grouse. We headed back to the hotel for much needed cold beer and a fantastic salmon meal.


Ring Ouzel of the race alpestris which has whiter wings and more scaling than the nominate race found in the UK - Lesichevo

Crested Tit of race bureschi - Lesichevo

Cowslip - Lesichevo

Fire Salamander - Lesichevo

Black Woodpecker - Lesichevo

Links to the Other Days of the Trip

Wednesday, 27 April 2016

Bulgaria Trip - Background and Day 1 - 22nd April

Background
This is the tale of the worst moment in my birding life, one that I shall look back on with regret for the rest of my days. At the age of 14 on 16th May 1985 I had convinced my Mum to let me take the day off school as the conditions looked good for a seawatch at St. Catherine’s Point, the wind had gone south and it was prime time for Pomarine Skua. I was up early and began the 45 minute cycle ride from home. But I decided to stop at a local woodland, Gladices on the way. There were good numbers of birds around and I was delayed so much so that I didn’t arrive at St. Catherine's Point at all. Latter that day my heart sank in absolute disbelief, a Wallcreeper had flown in off the sea and pitched on the rock just off the seawatch point before heading east along the cliff face, I could not believe it and the gravity of missing a once in a lifetime event hit me hard and still does 31 years later. I have tried to see Wallcreeper in the Himalayas and the Pyrenees since, in the Alps near to Briancon I saw one fly from a cliff face at least 300m above me, I saw a silhouette and nothing more. It is a bird I have wanted to see for many years, my true nemesis bird. So, after visiting the Neophron Tours stand at the Bird Fair at Rutland in 2014 and speaking to Minko Madzharov I realised that Bulgaria would offer me one of the best chances of seeing this species plus a few other ticks. So, on 22nd April our flight was scheduled and Sarah and I were off.

Logistics
The entire trip was organised by Dimiter Georgiev the director of the excellent Neophron Tours who booked hotels and provided our guide, Minko Madzharov. The cost for the four days was 928 Euros for the two of us but we did go for a slightly more expensive hotel, the Trigrad Hotel, and so the trip could be done a little more cheaply particularly if there is a small group. I would not hesitate in recommending Neophron Tours for any trip to Bulgaria, Dimiter was very helpful and responsive during the planning of the trip (he guides as well) and Minko is an excellent guide and by the end of the trip we had become good friends. Nephron Tours can be contacted via their website here.

22nd April
At 03:00 our alarm went off and we hurriedly headed to Terminal 5 for our British Airways flight to Sophia, Bulgaria. We arrived at the airport at 05:30 and had plenty of time to have breakfast of smoked salmon and Champagne before heading to the BA lounge where further glasses of Champagne were supped, it was still only 07:30. Our 08:20 flight left on time and we were soon winging our way south-east. We landed in Sophia at 13:25, gathered our bags and met with Minko who was waiting at the airport for us. We loaded our bags and after driving around the multi-storey car park a couple of times we were off and promptly stuck in a small traffic jam in Sophia.  We headed east on the A1, I picked out Red-rumped Swallow and White Stork from the car. We then headed south-east through Plovdiv before stopping at an area of woodland and grassland to the south of Plovdiv for a break in the driving. Here a short walk through grassland and scrub produced Cuckoo, Black-headed Wagtail, Little Ringed Plover and five Whinchat. There were many butterflies here including Marsh Fritillary, Brimstone, Comma, Painted Lady, Brown Argus and a diversity of blues but while there appeared to be five or six species I was only able to identify Adonis Blue. A fine male Eastern Green Lizard was present among five females.

Marsh Fritillary - Near to Plovdiv 

Marsh Fritillary - Near to Plovdiv 

Adonis Blue - Near to Plovdiv 

Adonis Blue - Near to Plovdiv 

Southern Festoon - Near to Plovdiv 

Ground Lackey - Near to Plovdiv 

Lady Orchid - Near to Plovdiv 

Lady Orchid - Near to Plovdiv

Reichenbach's Iris - Near to Plovdiv 

Common Cuckoo - Near to Plovdiv 

After an hour or so here we headed on, the mountains became larger and more imposing before we eventually turned into a wooded gorge. The transition between flat arable land and the pine, spruce, oak, beech and ash clad river gorge was remarkable and it wasn’t long before the mountains of the Western Rhodopes climbed above us, rocky outcrops appeared and as we joined the Trigrad River we entered a beautiful, narrow, deep and rather claustrophobic gorge - perfect Wallcreeper habitat! We stopped at a lay-by just to the north of the 'Devil's Throat' a deep cave in the Trigrad Gorge and there, above the road, Minko pointed out a small crevice with a nest - a Wallcreeper nest and reassured us that this was an active nest. The light was fading and we were keen to get some dinner and catch-up with sleep so we headed for Trigrad and checked into the very nice Trigrad Hotel. Stepping onto the balcony which overlooked the village we were greeted by singing Black Redstart and White Wagtail and a rustic roof-scape. Beer, wine a beautiful fresh trout and then bed - sorted!

Trigrad - The view from our balcony

White Wagtail - Trigrad

Black Redstart - Trigrad

Links to the Other Days of the Trip